What would Jeremiah Johnson say?

This is an article-length journal. Please click on the links to view images of the areas mentioned. Over the next few weeks I will be adding several more. However, if anyone has their own images of places in the journal, by all means drop me a note and I will add a link to your photo.

While my current circumstances rule out any Grand Canyon hiking in the foreseeable future, my hope is that some day I may again hike in the Corridor.
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1 - On the edge of Grand Canyon’s developed South Rim, visitors’ thoughts vary. (TarryAGoat's image: [link] ) Of course, the view is staggering. Previous perspectives of size are skewed. Still, most feel no compulsion to go beyond the overwhelming panorama. ‘Why bother’, they ask? ‘Can it really be worth all that trouble?’

Nonetheless, there are those who see a cardio-vascular challenge within the view. They just have to know how fast they can make it down and up. A few others leave the rim because it is “necessary”—a test of pride; a matter of holding one’s head up high.

But, the majority of those who bother going to the trouble compare the massive landscape to a Thanksgiving feast with all the enticing foods laid out before you, the aroma making your mouth water. One might savor this view and anticipate its flavor, but if one really wishes to taste…


2 - Grand Canyon’s “Corridor” is visible directly beneath the South Rim’s tourist area and continues on the Colorado River’s north side through Bright Angel Canyon—a distinct cleavage (it’s a faultline) separating parts of the North Rim. Clues of something down there besides rock, cactus and scorpions tantalize those who come to gaze. Distant structures 3400 ft / 1100m below at the oasis of Indian Garden, and a tan ribbon of trail running out to the edge of a dark abyss are evident to even the most casual visitor. Pinpoints of light from Phantom Ranch nearly a mile below catch the attention of dawnwatchers at Mather Point.

Still, only a small percentage of Grand Canyon visitors ever depart the rim to answer these questions and discover others.

Most of this small percentage visit the Corridor—essentially the developed area of the inner canyon. “Developed” is used loosely here. For example, the Bright Angel and South Kaibab trails are maintained: they are wide, well defined, cleared of rubble from rock slides, and semi-patrolled during summer. Compared to other trails, these are boulevardes into the canyon. This does not mean they are easy. Most Grand Canyon rescues occur in or near Corridor trails reflecting not only their heavy useage, but also their severity.

Three National Park Service staffed Corridor campgrounds feature individual sites with potable water, picnic tables, clean toilets (with toilet paper!) as well as emergency telephone service to the rim. The Indian Garden CG also has ramadas; the Bright Angel CG, flush toilets and a close proximity to the river and Phantom Ranch; the Cottonwood CG, the remote aura passed on by the largely undeveloped North Rim towering above.

3 - From the South Rim near Yaki Point [link] , the dazzling—and steep—South Kaibab Trail continually offers the most sweeping and awe inspiring inner-canyon / river views of any trail. [link] Nothing is comparable. The SK defines panorama. There are drawbacks, however, beyond the steepness: there is no shelter from rain nor sun nor wind. Constant panoramas mean constant exposure. Thunderstorms can be particularly nerve wracking; the June heat relentless.

Note: the half-day down and up hike to Cedar Ridge on the SK is a terrific introduction to this trail’s stellar views. [link]

Arizona’s most popular trail, the Bright Angel, is best saved for a hike out. Though far from gentle, it’s not the death march the South Kaibab can be, especially in mid-summer. A saving grace on the BA is Indian Garden halfway out with its—relatively—easy walk to the magnificent view at Plateau Point. But, otherwise, the BA trailviews are rather constricted as is typical with all canyon trails except the SK. The SK follows a ridgeline. The others descend through side canyons with their accompanying walls blocking sweeping panoramas.

And I haven’t even mentioned the dizzying views of the Colorado River from the SK’s Tipoff—the beginning of the descent into Grand Canyon’s inner gorge. Nor will I mention the assault on a backpacker’s knees that is about to take place.

After crossing the river on the depression-era Kaibab Suspension Bridge (also used by mules) for the SK [link] , or the more recent Silver Bridge (carrying the trans-canyon water pipeline) for the BA [link] , one is on Grand Canyon’s north side. Now, the Bright Angel and South Kaibab trails merge into one North Kaibab trail.


4 - Phantom Ranch (it’s not really a ranch), less than a kilometer from the bridges, is the inner-canyon’s most developed point. Besides the Bright Angel CG nearer the river, Phantom Ranch offers a canteen by day, a restaurant (positively advance reservation only) by evening, and beer hall by night; dormitories for hikers (again with advance reservations) and cabins for mule riders alongside the ever-burbling Bright Angel Creek. Black walls of schist interspersed with veins of pink zoroaster granite keep watch over the buildings. These walls, wide and inviting where the creek empties into the river, narrow considerably past Phantom Ranch.

(I must relate this sad little story:
When I was little I had one of those stereo viewers that looked vaguely like binoculars where you slipped a disk of pictures into the back which then allowed you to see in an incredible 3D image. These are still available. But, on my Grand Canyon disks, there was a picture of the most fantastic looking swimming pool at Phantom Ranch. I really wanted to swim in that pool. It had been built during the depression by the CCC. When I finally got down for the first time, however, I learned with great sadness that it had been filled in 15 years before, a victim of public health regulations.
Another childhood dream dashed ☹ )

One really needs, at least, a layover day here. People who hike down and out spending only a night between really miss the essence of Grand Canyon. Personally, I liked hiking the Corridor in November because on the 15th the National Park Service increases from two to four the number of days a backpacker may stay in any one Corridor CG per hike (after February 15th, the limit returns to two). This allowed me a two night stay at Bright Angel CG, three nights further up the North Kaibab trail at Cottonwood CG, and two more back at Bright Angel. Depending on my energy level, I might then spend a night at Indian Garden on my way out.

NOTE: overnight camping anywhere in Grand Canyon National Park requires the purchase of a backpacking permit from the National Park Service. In the Corridor, camping is allowed only in the three designated campgrounds.

5 - Though November, Phantom Ranch temperatures generally are in the mid-70s (low / mid 20s C). Cottonwood trees lining Bright Angel Creek are in the process of turning a blazing yellow. The congestion, the mind-altering heat of summer have passed. Inner-canyon life returns to its meandering pace.

There are rewarding hiking opportinities around Phantom. Utah Flats, the Phantom Overlook [link] , Phantom Creek [link] , and Ribbon Falls (full day) are worthy efforts. But, so is sitting under the cottonwoods listening to the creek; so is reclining on a boulder by the river watching the world pass by.

Spending time at this wonderful place is an admirable accomplishment for any Grand Canyon visitor. They really have gone beyond the rim view. Nonetheless, there remains much, much more for those who want it. After two nights, I would be on my way again, now heading 7 miles / 11.2 km north and up the North Kaibab trail through Bright Angel canyon to Cottonwood CG. Once there, one is now 1600 ft / 475 m above the river. (though the South Rim remains visible, the river has long since been out of sight) The incline is generally so gentle that hiking uphill is not noticeable. Even with my heavy backpack full of view camera equipment, the hike to Cottonwood takes not even close to four hours (but an hour less on the return).

The great feature between Phantom Ranch and Cottonwood is “The Box”, a narrow, twisting section of Bright Angel canyon. It takes about an hour or so to hike this confined area. At times, the walls make room only for the creek and trail. Four footbridges carry the trail from one side of the creek to the other.

In summer, The Box is an oven with temperatures rising to 120F / 50C. The possibility of flash flooding from a sudden storm causes hikers to enter The Box with some trepidation. But, in November, these threats vanish. Now, the further one rises, the cooler the temperatures.


6 - The contrasts between Cottonwood and Phantom Ranch are profound. Whereas around Phantom there could be close to 150, even 200 people (backpackers, mule riders, mule wranglers, Phantom Ranch staff, NPS staff), at Cottonwood, out of a dozen campsites, perhaps one other might be occupied. The ranger station has been abandoned until the Spring. No one hikes down from the North Rim. Nighttime temperatures push freezing. Sunny days have a crispness. Cottonwood feels like the backcountry. Cottonwood feels like you are alone in Grand Canyon. [link]

Beautiful Ribbon Falls is just a mile back down the trail. So named, because after its initial drop, rivulets of water sheet through a mantle of green moss into a plungepool not a foot (30 cm) deep. Those not pressed for time at Phantom Ranch might choose to make a day hike up to the falls (6 miles / 9.5 km each way). From Cottonwood CG, however, it is a most pleasant walk. In summer, there can be something resembling a crowd, but during November, visitation is much lower, if not altogether non-existant.

One’s response to this intense solitude can be overwhelming. It’s as if Mozart materializes before your eyes to make music for your ears alone [link]

Yet after several visits, even Ribbon Falls raises questions. Following further the source of its water is possible. A seldom used trail allows access to the area above and beyond. And after about a mile of following the little creek, one comes upon Upper Ribbon Falls, not as tall, not as picturesque, but even more remote. Ruins of a small Indian dwelling are nearby. The sense of living history assaults the imagination.

One can go even further. There is supposed to be an Upper Upper Ribbon Falls, though it appears not even a cairned route exists. As yet, I’ve not ventured back that far. Perhaps the next time.


7 - About 1.5 miles (2.4 km), up the North Kaibab from Cottonwood is another waterfall. In comparason to Ribbon, Roaring Springs is far more robust. It literally explodes from high in the canyon wall. The roar can be heard thousands of feet above (1000+ m) at the North Rim’s most popular view, Bright Angel point. [link] Since the bulk of Bright Angel Creek’s flow comes from Roaring Springs, one now understands the creek’s constant energy. In fact, since Roaring Springs does indeed roar, the NPS diverts about 20% of the flow into the pipeline system that provides water to both sides of the national park.

Note: The North Kaibab trail and the Silver Bridge over the Colorado were not built for the convenience of hikers, but rather to carry the water pipeline from Roaring Springs through Bright Angel Canyon, and across the river to Indian Garden where a pumphouse sends water up to the South Rim.

Unfortunately, piping and scaffolding detract from the overall image of Roaring Springs. The lush day use area under the falls provides, in summer, an escape from the inner-canyon heat. But, in November, the air is chilly and damp; the water is cold and the light, gray. Yellow cottonwood leaves carpet the ground. There is no one else. No…this is not for everybody.


8 - The return to Phantom Ranch is far from anti-climactic. The hike is gently downhill. In mid-November there is no scorching heat to avoid; no pre-dawn start to the trek. The prospect of two leisurely days at the Bright Angel CG as well as a steak dinner at Phantom Ranch fuel each step. One does not feel a psychological challenge. The hike back to the river is one of the least debilitating in the canyon.

After three nights away, one is aware of the progression of Fall color through the trees. [link] Tamarisks, invasive trees not native to Grand Canyon, also turn gold. Though lovely to perceive, their complex root systems leech huge amounts of precious water from the Colorado.

On sunny days, the sand on the boat beach is warm. Though the current is swift, only a bumpy stretch of unremarkable white water is found here. An occasional raft trip might pull in for a short stay. But, in November, their frequency has waned. While the rafters miss the opportunity to become intimate with the Phantom area and never see Ribbon Falls, their river journey through the canyon conjures up dreams. They have as yet a long way to travel, such wondrous sights to behold.


9 - All else being equal, I would spend a final night at Indian Garden CG 4.5 miles / 7 km up the BA trail. While one covers half the length of the BA in reaching IG, the actual elevation gain places it only about a third of the way out of the canyon. (ArizonaElias image: [link] )

Indian Garden is reassuring. Though still deep below the rim, day hikers and mule trips make it a canyon crossroads. [link] Lights from the civilization above are visible in the night. The remoteness of Cottonwood is only a memory. You can almost hear the tinkle of crystal stemware in the El Tovar Hotel dining room.

There are great views at IG—but, not necessarily from the campground. A remarkably easy trail leads to Plateau Point, one of the great canyon overlooks. [link] The river flows 1200 ft. / 350 m directly below. The canyon’s rims seem distant. Rock formations whose size eludes so many on the rim astonish with their enormity. [link] One is completely surrounded by Grand Canyon. Be forewarned, though: don’t get caught out there in a thunderstorm. [link]

There is nothing remarkable about the last day’s climb to the top other than the view is best taken in short bursts. For one thing, it remains largely the same throughout the hike—just a higher and higher perspective. You are not going to miss some wondrous new sight. But, most importantly, backpackers become numb to the view. Their heads are down. They experience the great mental battle to keep going. Climbing out of Grand Canyon wearing a backpack is one of the most demanding physical exertions many will ever encounter. Once at the top, there will then be much time to view Grand Canyon with new appreciation—after a cold drink, shower, and cheeseburger, of course.


10 - So, what would Jeremiah Johnson say?

‘ ’twar it worth the trouble? ’

‘ Hah!? What trouble? ’